At first glance, Burwash may seem like just another picturesque village nestled in the rolling hills of East Sussex. But beneath its postcard-perfect charm lies a rich and, at times, rebellious history—marked by smugglers, scandal, literary greatness, and even rock legends. I grew up in Burwash, and whenever I return, I occasionally take photos to document the village I once called home.
This post offers a glimpse into Burwash’s storied past, plus a visual tour showcasing the village’s charm over the years.
Key Takeaways: What Makes Burwash Unique
- Burwash is a small village in East Sussex with a surprisingly rich and colourful history.
- Known for smuggling, violence, and local lawlessness in Victorian times.
- Home to Nobel Prize-winning author Rudyard Kipling at Bateman’s, a beautifully preserved 17th-century manor.
- Notable figures who visited include UK Prime Minister Stanley Baldwin and authors Kingsley Amis and Rider Haggard.
- Famous modern residents include rock legends Roger Daltrey (The Who) and Robert Smith (The Cure).
- The village still honours traditions such as its summer fête, unique war memorial, and churchyard with smugglers’ graves and Sussex’s oldest cast-iron grave slab.
A Village with a Notorious Reputation
Long before tourists arrived, Burwash had a darker side. By the mid-19th century, it had developed a reputation for smuggling. Strolling through the churchyard today, you’ll still find gravestones in St Bartholomew’s churchyard etched with skulls and crossbones—reminders of a time when illicit activity left their mark, even in death.
One notorious establishment, The Burwash Wheel, was described by workers as the roughest pub they’d ever entered. It sold contraband spirits and illicitly distilled alcohol. In true Victorian Gothic fashion, the wife poisoned the owner, evaded justice, and lived to see her lover hanged. Burwash, it seems, had no shortage of dark tales.
A 1992 book based on the diaries of John Coker Egerton, who served as rector in Burwash from 1857 to 1862 and again from 1865 to 1867, highlights the village’s reputation. In Victorian Village: The Diaries of the Reverend John Coker Egerton of Burwash 1857-1888, the editor describes Burwash as the birthplace of rick-burners (arsonists), sheep stealers, and thieves. The local population, the editor writes, appeared to Egerton as “wild, ignorant, and lawless.”
But as much as Burwash was feared, it was also deeply rooted in tradition. In 1252, King Henry III granted the village the right to hold a weekly market and an annual May fair. These customs survive today in events like the August Bank Holiday village fête, a gentler echo of its medieval past.
Burwash Church and Its Ironclad Memories
The village church, St Bartholomew’s, is one of Burwash’s oldest landmarks. Its tower, dating from around 1090, houses the oldest cast-iron grave slab in Sussex, dating back to the early 1500s. It’s a small but significant reminder of how deeply embedded history is in Burwash.
Just outside the church, at the junction of School Hill, stands one of the country’s most unusual war memorials. Erected in 1920 and opened by Rudyard Kipling, it features a lantern that is lit each year on the exact date of each fallen soldier’s death—a rare and moving ritual of remembrance.
Kipling at Bateman’s—and His Literary Circle
Burwash eventually became better known for its most celebrated resident: Rudyard Kipling. He lived at Bateman’s, a 17th-century sandstone manor tucked into the Sussex countryside, from 1902 until he died in 1936. A nearby quarry provided the stone to build the Jacobean home in 1634. The National Trust now preserves the estate and its peaceful gardens.
Kipling wrote many of his best-loved works at Bateman’s, including the inspirational poem If, the Sussex-set Puck of Pook’s Hill, and imaginative tales like Just So Stories, which followed the global success of The Jungle Book. In 1907, he became the first English-language writer to win the Nobel Prize for Literature.
Bateman’s also attracted other literary figures. For example, Kingsley Amis stayed in Burwash while working on a tribute to Kipling. And Sir Henry Rider Haggard, author of King Solomon’s Mines, was a regular visitor. Even Stanley Baldwin, Kipling’s cousin and Prime Minister three times between 1923 and 1937, made frequent visits to the house.
These connections helped place Burwash at the heart of British literary and political life, far beyond what you’d expect from a small village on the edge of the Weald.
From Literary Giants to Rock Legends
Burwash’s creative legacy didn’t end with Kipling. In more recent decades, the village has quietly hosted two of Britain’s most iconic rock stars:
- Roger Daltrey, lead singer of The Who, has long lived nearby and even ran a trout farm in the area. Known for his electrifying stage presence, Daltrey’s choice to settle in Burwash reveals a love of the land and the local community. I once saw him pull up outside the village newsagent in a red Ferrari. Daltrey stepped out in a bright blue tracksuit, casually popping in—presumably for a Sunday paper—before driving off again. It was a perfectly surreal moment in Burwash.
- Robert Smith, frontman of The Cure, has also lived in the village for many years. While more elusive, Smith’s dark, poetic lyrics seem oddly in harmony with the shadowy forests of East Sussex—the kind that could have inspired A Forest, one of The Cure’s best songs, in my opinion. Known for his unmistakable look—teased hair, smudged eyeliner, and all-black attire—his presence in the village always felt like a thrill. I once ran into him at the local petrol station, dressed exactly as he appears on stage. It was a reminder that his stage persona isn’t an act—it’s just who he is, even on “In Between Days” in East Sussex.
These public figures may not have blue plaques, but they contribute a certain coolness to the village’s cultural identity.
The Name of Burwash—and a Curious Local Legend
Burwash was first recorded in the 12th century as “Burherce,” which likely meant “fortified hill.” But locals enjoy a more playful origin story: that the name came from someone washing a dog named “Bur” in the local clay. It’s probably untrue, but it says something about the village’s fondness for its quirks and characters.
Final Thought
Burwash may not be the most famous village in England, but few places pack so much history, eccentricity, and charm into a single high street. From smugglers’ graves and literary legends to rock stars, its stories are as layered as the Wealden landscape.
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